Lately I’ve been neglecting my blog and I’ve been called out a bunch for it. I only have about 4 weeks left in France, so I’ll try to get all my thoughts down (and a few recipes) before then!
One of the coolest parts about being in Nice is that Italy is so close, only about a 45 minute train ride to Ventimiglia! Over the last couple months I’ve had a lot of Italian influence in my life and I’m definitely not complaining. When Emily came to visit in March, we took a day trip to Ventimiglia and it started how I think every morning should start—with 2 Italian cappuccinos and a cannoli 🙂 I learned that the hard shell cannolis are actually from Sicily, but we had a cannoli with a soft pastry outside, which is more common in the north of Italy.
After that we walked to the giant food market that had some of the best looking produce I’d ever seen. We walked around looking at all the fruits and vegetables and flowers and then doubled back to buy some stuff for dinner: a couple artichokes, fresh tomatoes, some buffala mozzarella, and two kinds of ravioli. I was really tempted to buy a kilo of strawberries but it was only March so Emily convinced me they wouldn’t be very good…
Then we wandered down to the flea market, where they literally sell everything. There are vendors with cheap sunglasses next to huge stacks of kitchen pots and pans next to vendors selling bras and underwear and bathing suits next to tables of men’s and women’s shoes next to gourmet food stands with cheeses and sauces and dried meats. It’s definitely a one-stop shop. It’s also right next to the beach. The view of the sea is nice, but the beaches on the Italian Riviera aren’t as nice as the beaches in Nice and it was really windy, so I think I’ll stick to the French Riviera for that.
And of course it wouldn’t be a trip to Italy without trying some gelato 🙂
Now fast-forward to this past weekend—Italy came to Nice! Every year in June, there’s a big Italian food expo in Nice, right on the Promenade des Anglais, called L’Italie à table. There are tons of vendors selling cheese, olive oil, meat, and more. The weather was finally fairly decent so Isabelle and Tanya and I spent Saturday afternoon at the beach and then met Luc and Ursula for an aperitif at L’Italie à table. It was SO good. We each bought a glass of wine and just walked around visiting all the booths, most of which were giving out free samples. Isabelle and Tanya both speak Italian, so they were chatting up the vendors a bit. Throughout the course of the evening, I tried a LOT: pecorino cheese flavored with pear and one flavored with truffle, dried sausage, the best olive oil I’ve ever had in my life, porchette (a giant roast pork), hazelnut and chocolate spreads like Nutella but better, parmigiano reggiano, sundried tomatoes, artichokes, and the crunchy Italian snack food taralli flavored with fennel and red pepper. We each bought an arancini, which are rice balls stuffed with meat and peas and coated in bread crumbs and deep fried, and yes, it is as delicious as it sounds.
And guys, we ate olives the size of golf balls!
At the end of the night, I had to indulge myself in a real Sicilian cannoli before we each bought a glass of Prosecco and sat on the beach to watch the sun set. It was the perfect ending to the perfect evening 🙂
Ok now rewind a little bit. When I went to Ventimiglia with Emily, I bought a packet of squid ink pasta to save for another time, so this is where the Sunday Night Dinner recipe comes in. Squid ink pasta is obviously flavored with squid ink, so it’s black and looks a little bit creepy, but it’s really good. Two weeks ago, Isabelle and I (well mostly Isabelle) made squid ink pasta with fresh seiche (kind of like squid, but closer to cuttlefish). So here’s this week’s SND with squid/seiche (from http://ricette.giallozafferano.it/Tagliolini-al-doppio-nero-di-seppia.html, but good luck reading it since it’s in Italian) 🙂
Tagliolini al nero di sepia (Squid Ink Pasta)
250 g squid
4 g squid ink
2 cloves garlic
4 tbsp olive oil
1 tbsp tomato paste
½ glass white wine
Prep time: 15 minutes
Cook time: 15 minutes
1. Wash and clean the squid – don’t forget to take out the bone inside if there is one. Cut into thin strips.
2. In a medium sauce pan brown two whole cloves of garlic in four tablespoons of olive oil.
3. Remove the garlic from the pan and add the squid. Cook for a few minutes.
4. As soon as the squid has lost its moisture, add the white wine and cook for a few more minutes before adding ground pepper, the tomato paste, and the squid ink.
5. Cook until the squid is tender, which will change depending on what size squid you have used (max. 5-6 mins of cooking in total).
6. Meanwhile, bring a pot of water to a boil, and add the squid ink pasta. Cook until al dente.
7. Drain the pasta, but keep some of the cooking water, and add the pasta to the sauce and stir. Add some of the cooking water if the sauce is too dry.
8. Cook for 1-2 minutes more to combine the ingredients.
9. Serve with a generous garnish of chopped parsley.
When I leave France, I’m definitely going to miss the warm baguettes, delicious cheese, and good wine, but there’s now a special place in my heart (and stomach) for Italian food 🙂
French word of the day:
fourrer (foo-RAY)– to stuff
J’espère que je peux fourrer tous mes vêtements dans ma valise quand je retourne aux États-Unis!
I hope I can stuff all my clothes in my suitcase when I return to the US!